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Person holding the black deadbolt and doorknob of a partly open blue front door. — Deadbolt Installation, Toronto
Two detached brass lock cylinders and four house keys on a wooden counter. — Lock Rekeying, Toronto

Change or rekey · Toronto

Deadbolt Installation

The bolt on the front door is keyed on both sides.

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In plain words

Steel-clad and fibreglass doors, the common insulated entry doors in newer subdivisions, take a deadbolt happily as long as they are cut for it properly. The skin is thin metal or resin over a foam core, often with a wood block at lock height, so the cross bore is made with a hole saw suited to the skin, at low speed, and the edge is finished with a plate rather than a chisel mortise. Solid wood doors in older homes are cut conventionally, with care for splitting at the edge. The locksmith reads the door before drilling and picks the method that leaves a clean opening and a true-running bolt.

Sound familiar?

Someone tried the door last winter. The frame took it, but the strike plate is bent, one screw hole is stripped, and the bolt sits in the pocket at a slight angle. It still locks, and it still bothers you every night.

How the visit goes

Deadbolt Installation

How the visit goes

Roll-up black cloth pouch lying open on a worn wooden bench, holding thin metal probes and hooked tools in separate pockets.
Technician in safety glasses holding a steel deadbolt with a keyway beside a splintered door edge and a tool case.
  1. Exit, fire and who lives here

    The last part of the first look is about the people, not the door. The locksmith asks whether this is the door the household leaves through, whether children, older relatives or anyone with limited hand strength use it, and whether it is a rental where the landlord holds keys. A door that serves as a way out gets a thumb-turn planned for it, so nobody has to hunt for a key to leave. A lever thumb-turn is easier for small or stiff hands than a knurled one, and a rental may need a note to the building manager. None of this takes long, and it shapes which box comes off the van.

  2. Working on a steel-clad or fibreglass door

    Insulated doors are cut with the skin in mind. A hole saw with fine teeth is run at low speed through the metal face, with the jig doing the steering so the saw does not skate on the smooth surface, and the cut is finished from the second face to keep both skins clean. Swarf is vacuumed out of the core so it cannot work into the bolt. The edge is usually a wood or composite stile inside a folded metal lip, and the bolt is finished with a drive-in collar or a plate screwed into the stile rather than a chiselled mortise. Fibreglass is scored first so the skin does not chip, then cut the same way.

  3. The rest of the door, tidied

    A deadbolt installation usually leaves the whole entry better than it found it. Hinge screws that were loose have been replaced with longer ones that bite into the framing, so the door hangs square. Weatherstrip that pinched the door has been trimmed and the latch below the new bolt has been checked against its own strike. The bore edges are clean, any shavings and steel filings have been vacuumed from the sill and the core, and the finish around the new hardware is unmarked. Open and close the door a few times over the next week and let the locksmith know if anything changes as the door settles.

Deadbolt Installation

In the van

  • Strike box

  • Jamb reinforcer

  • 25 mm auger bit

  • Dry PTFE lubricant

  • Reinforced strike plate

Person seated at a wooden table examining a brass mortise lock body, with a tool roll, small lock parts and a mug.

Deadbolt Installation

What affects the quote

  1. Mechanical, keypad or smart lock

    Electronic deadbolts carry a different hardware line and add setup time for codes, pairing to a phone and a walk-through, all of which appear as their own entries.

  2. Finish and trim style

    Coated finishes built for salt and sun, matching trim for an existing handleset, and low-profile faces cost differently from a standard brass or nickel unit, and you choose the level.

  3. Door material

    Solid wood, steel-clad and fibreglass doors are each cut differently. Metal skins call for slower cutting and cleanup of filings, so the material is one of the first things a quote takes into account.

What to have ready

  • Is the door solid wood, steel-clad or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
  • Do you own the home, rent it, or manage it for someone else?
  • Does the door have to be pulled or lifted before it latches or locks at the moment?
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Deadbolt Installation: questions

Questions
Do I need a deadbolt on the door from the garage into the house?

It is worth having. The door between an attached garage and the living space is in practice often the softest way in, since a garage door left open leaves a passage knob as the only barrier. A thumb-turn deadbolt there costs a few minutes a day and closes that gap.

The door has to be pulled before the old bolt will lock. Will a new one fix that?

The new bolt will only lock as smoothly as the door and frame let it, so the locksmith deals with the cause as part of the installation. A door that has sagged on loose hinges gets longer hinge screws or a shim, thick weatherstrip is trimmed, and the strike is set from the bolt's actual position with the door closed. The pocket is bored deep enough for a full throw. Afterwards the bolt should slide with fingertip effort.

Can the new deadbolt use the same key as my other doors?

Usually, yes. If the new lock shares a keyway with your existing cylinders, the locksmith repins it on the bench so your current key operates it, and nothing changes on anyone's ring. If the keyways differ, the other doors can be brought onto the new key instead. Say which key you want to keep before the hardware is chosen, because keyway is part of picking the lock.

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