Change or rekey · Toronto
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
Someone tried the back door while you were away.
In plain words
Not every complaint about a lock ends in a new lock, and a good visit says so. A cylinder that turns stiffly may only need cleaning and fresh pins; a lost key calls for rekeying, which keeps the hardware and changes the key; a loose lever often wants a tightened spindle. Replacement earns its place when the mechanism is worn through, the housing is damaged, the grade was never adequate for the entrance, or you want a different function, finish or a keypad. The locksmith lays the three routes side by side so the choice rests on what the door needs rather than on what is in the van.
How the visit goesThe century home's original mortise lock takes a key the size of a spoon, sticks in humid weather and has worn its strike to a groove. You want a lock that works every day without giving up the old door.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
How the visit goes
Function, and the way out
Each door has a job, and the hardware should match it. The main entrance needs a keyed deadbolt with an interior thumb-turn so anyone inside can leave without hunting for a key. A door with glass beside it is better served by a reinforced strike and glass protection than by a keyed cylinder on the inside. Interior doors may want passage, privacy or a keyed function, and a lever suits hands that find a knob awkward. Sorting function out first keeps looks from overriding how the door has to work.
Setting and reinforcing the strike
The strike side is where a replacement earns most of its value. With the door closed, the bolt is thrown and its mark checked against the pocket so the strike can be positioned to accept the full throw without rubbing. A shallow pocket is deepened until the bolt seats to its stop. Then a reinforced strike or a strike box is fitted using 75 millimetre screws that pass through the jamb and bite into the framing behind it, which is what stops a jamb splitting under a kick. Where an old forced entry has cracked the wood, it is glued and dowelled or a repair plate is fitted first.
A clear plan for the remaining doors
Most households do not replace every lock in one visit, and you leave with a short list of what is left, in order of importance. Typically the front door and the garage-to-house door come first, then the back and side doors, then the patio slider and interior sets. Because the key plan has been settled, any lock added later can be pinned to the same key, so the house stays on one key as the work continues. Finishes and styles are recorded so future hardware matches. The first visit sets the standard; the rest of the house can follow when it suits you.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
In the van
Cylinders, plug follower and pinning kit
Graded deadbolt
Boring jig and hole saws
Chisels, mallet and hand screwdrivers
Manufacturer-approved cylinder lubricant
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
What affects the quote
Strike reinforcement and jamb repair
A reinforced strike with long screws is a modest addition; repairing a jamb split from a forced entry, or fitting a strike box into a frame that has never had one, adds labour and materials.
Keying alike and rekeying
Pinning new cylinders to one key and repinning existing locks to match is work per cylinder, so a whole house on a single key is quoted by the number of locks joining it.
Grade of hardware
A light Grade 3 knob set, a residential deadbolt with a strong label rating and a Grade 1 commercial-style deadbolt are different products at different levels, and the quote follows the grade you choose for each door.
What to have ready
- Which doors are you thinking about, and what is on each one now?
- Which finish should the new hardware match?
- Is the door wood, steel or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions
QuestionsWhat happens to the old lock?
It is yours. Some people keep a sound old cylinder as a spare or move a decent deadbolt to a shed or garage door, and the locksmith can rekey it to the house key for that purpose. Worn or damaged hardware is taken away for recycling if you prefer. Either way, the old keys should be gathered up and discarded so nobody confuses them with the new set.
Will a new lock fit the holes already in my door?
Usually, yes. Most residential doors are prepared to standard sizes, a 54 millimetre cross bore and a backset of 60 or 70 millimetres, and most modern hardware adjusts between those backsets. The locksmith measures before choosing, so the new lock is matched to the door rather than the other way around. Where an older mortise lock or an unusual bore is found, filler plates, extension kits or a carefully jigged new bore bring the door to standard.
How long does a lock replacement take?
A straightforward like-for-like deadbolt or knob set on a standard door is often a matter of an hour or less including testing. Add time for a reinforced strike, for keying several locks alike and cutting keys, for a smart lock's setup and pairing, and for repairing a split jamb or adapting an older door. When several entrances are done together, the locksmith gives a realistic window before starting so you can plan the day.
Related services
- Deadbolt InstallationThe bolt on the front door is keyed on both sides.
- Vintage Mortise Lock ServiceThe knob flops loose on its spindle and never springs back to level.
- Smart Lock InstallationYour mother still lives on her own, and the personal support worker, the pharmacy delivery and two siblings all need to get in on different days.